We’re back in our home country, so I’m back to posting the photo of the week. From hereon in (partially as an excuse to go through more of our trip photos), I’ll also be including a tiny gallery to give you more context, or insight, or just more photos.
This week, we’re looking at elephants on the Zambezi during our canoe trip in Zambia. We managed to get pretty close to a few later on to get some sharper shots (as you can see below), but Moreno snapped the feature image of the elephants over the grass while I was afraid to even look in their direction, and I love how dreamy and hazy the photo came out.
Note: There was no colour editing done on the photos. The grays and greens always came out a bit heavier and deeper in Zambia for some reason.
We only spent a few days in Berlin, mostly to visit a darling travel girlfriend of mine from southeast Asia, but our few days were the perfect balance of relaxing local-style and visiting all the tourist must-sees. Berlin was fantastic, and as it was also Moreno’s first time there, as a history nut, it was definitely a phenomenal learning experience.
This wasn’t on our list of places to visit, and it’s not exactly a place we would drive out of our way to see, but the first time we laid eyes on the crazy quiver tree landscape at the Mesosaurus bush camp our first night in Namibia we were completely stunned and couldn’t get enough of how absolutely alien everything around us looked.
Fish River Canyon, Namibia
Fish River Canyon was breathtakingly stunning, and standing on the edge of it while the wind whipped the light rain back off our clothes was one of our favourite experiences of the trip.
One of the most popular destinations in Namibia that still manages to feel deserted, the dunes ofSossusvlei are some of the highest in the world and are something to behold. Next time, we climb even higher.
Ngepi Camp, Caprivi Strip, Namibia
The only actual campsite on this list, Ngepi Camp on the Caprivi Strip honestly goes down as one of our favourite places in Africa. I swear! The atmosphere of this place, the wilderness, the sounds, the treehouse feel, the outdoor bathrooms, the hippos on the lake…and (bonus!) completely sustainable and eco-friendly. Heaven.
We only saw a snippet of Malawi and unfortunately it wasn’t our favourite part of the trip due to various other circumstances. That said, the lake itself was beautiful and we know we want to go back and tour around more of it.
Small enough to get to know quickly, but with enough amenities (not to mention yoga, snorkelling and diving!) to spend a good couple of weeks, the little village of Tofo quickly earned a soft spot in our hearts and became the place we’d definitely return to ‘next time around.’
Drakensberg Mountains, South Africa
The Drakensberg Mountains weren’t the type of mountains we expected but were nonetheless beautiful. The hikes alone could easily justify spending at least a week or two in the area and doing just that is also on our ‘when we return’ list.
Oh, and the colours are that intense.
Tsitsikamma, Garden Route, South Africa
The weather was not in our favour when we visited the Garden Route but we could still tell (even through the dense fog) that the area was just gorgeous. We’d return to the Tsitsikamma Park in a heartbeat, but definitely want to visit the rest of the Garden Route as well.
The Cape Peninsula, South Africa
Cape Town, Boulders Beach, Chapman’s Peak, the V&A Waterfront…I think I’m in love with this area. As I mentioned before, it’s the only place we agreed was actually more stunning than Vancouver (crazy, right?) and we could easily take our time exploring the area for more than the two days we had.
We have been taking our time settling in back home and taking full advantage of the holidays (because we were due for a vacation), but with the new year, I thought I’d take a quick look back and share with you some of the most memorable moments of the year (in order of occurrence).
Hiking Monte Pasubio [Vicenza, Italy]
The Monte Pasubio tunnels are an important part of Italian history that Moreno just happens to be super interested in (WW1). He wanted to hike them when we heard about them last time we were in Italy, and this year while I stayed sniffling in bed, he ventured off and checked it off his Italy bucketlist.
First wildlife sightings [Pilanesberg National Park, South Africa]
Pilanesberg was just a couple hours outside of Johannesburg and was our first experience seeing all these animals in the wild. It was surreal to see them not in their own designated zones like in a zoo, instead there were zebras hanging out with wildebeest while ostriches ran around and we never quite got over feeling like we were in a movie.
Tracking our first cheetah [Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa]
It’s one thing to spot a lazy lion chillin’ under a tree when there’s already three other vehicles parked taking photos and giving away its position, and a whole other to watch other animals’ behaviour and patiently track and wait for a cheetah to appear. Suffice it to say we were very proud of ourselves.
Getting blown away at Cape Diaz [Luderitz, Namibia]
Moreno took a video of me standing on top of this lookout at Cape Diaz on the Atlantic coast trying to explain just how windy it was while holding on to one of the pillars and to my hood. I can tell you it was so windy you can’t actually hear anything.
Seeing (and getting charged by) elephants in the wild [Damaraland, Namibia]
Not necessarily a pleasant moment, but a memorable one nonetheless. Seeing elephants in the wild was probably one of my most vivid African dreams, and Moreno getting charged by one while I hid in the bushes definitely delivered.
Skydiving [Swakopmund, Namibia]
Probably the funnest experience of the whole trip, we tandem skydived for my birthday to a backdrop of ocean and desert. Definitely made up for not bungee jumping!
Whitewater rafting [Victoria Falls, Zambia]
We were a bit hesitant about doing the whitewater rafting at Vic Falls but in the end were wishing we had signed up for the full day! Even the flipping over was a thrill – and helped us cool off from the Zambian midday heat.
Canoe Trip [Lower Zambezi, Zambia]
When we post the video of the elephant that sloshed over to us (a good three or less meters away) you’ll be able to imagine how absolutely magnificent, and absolutely terrifying, they truly are.
Bush camping [Lower Zambezi, Zambia]
An experience in its own right, camping on a small island on the Zambezi River with a group of great people and hearing all the wildlife around was heart pounding and one of those experiences where we caught ourselves thinking, “life is good.”
Snorkelling with whale sharks [Tofo, Mozambique]
Snorkelling in Tofo was particularly amazing because somewhere along the line I had developed a fear of such things…snorkeling, deep water – it wasn’t my favourite situation to be in. But throughout our trip we had done enough little things that by the time our ocean safari guide yelled, “Whale shark! Jump!” I jumped in that water with the rest of them :D
Getting pampered at Rosendal Winery & Wellness Retreat [Robertson, South Africa]
Perhaps not as exhilarating as some of the other things on the list but we wished we had more time at this winery and spa anyway. The food was delicious, the wine was free, the spa treatments were sooooo relaxing, and we walked around as if on a lavender filled cloud 9 the whole time. Perfect for settling down a bit before coming home.
And that’s it. Well, actually, there’s a lot of things that could’ve made the list. Some of the top ones were actually meeting up with friends in Germany and Italy, and my whole family being together (for the first time ever) in Poland.
I actually wrote this sitting at a Mugg & Bean coffee shop in the Cape Town International Airport waiting for our flight out earlier this week. I can’t believe it’s over! Fifteen weeks in Southern Africa flew by in what now feels like a flash. We spent our last week leisurely making our way down the coast, from Knysna through the Winelands to Cape Town, our final destination.
Rain Check on the Garden Route
Knysna (“Nye-zna”) was going to be our base camp for exploring the Garden Route (sharks! canoes!) but it was so wet when we arrived at the Tsitsikamma National Park that most activities we had planned were essentially out of the question and we opted for a little hike instead. An hour or two later, our clothes were completely drenched but once again we were quite pleased with ourselves for at least doing that much. We vowed to come back during slightly more optimal weather and moved on to the Winelands.
Wining, Dining & Pampering Ourselves Silly
That about sums it up! After Knysna we (partially) took Route 62 to experience a snippet of what is apparently the longest wine route in the world before checking in to a winery and indulging. The winery was also a ‘wellness retreat’ (what a coincidence!) so I made sure both Moreno and I partook in some spa treatments and massages before we went on to taste some very delicious wines.
The Southernmost Point in Africa
We veered off course a little bit after the Winelands because you can’t be within a couple hours of something like the southernmost point in Africa and not see it. A lot of people mistakingly think that Cape Point on the Cape peninsula is the furthest point south but that’s the “south-western most point” (semantics, I know), and we did visit that a couple days later.
Alas, the southern most point of Africa is a teeny tiny town of Cape Agulhas, a few hundred kilometres southeast of Cape Town. As with many of the ‘sights’ we’ve visited in Africa, it wasn’t overly touristed and as such we waited around, pretending to take photos of each other until another pair showed up and we could ask them to take this shot:
After a quick lunch and snack stop, we were on our way to Cape Town.
Cape Town. ‘Nuff Said.
There’s really not much more to say other than Cape Town delivered, right down to the last sunburn. The weather cooperated, the sun was out, the cable car up to Table Mountain was open, visibility was good, the water was turquoise and the mountains were stunningly rugged and rocky and green.
The next day we took our time packing before heading over to the V&A Waterfront, which I have to admit, is not the first time in Cape Town where we thought, “Step it up Vancouver!!” Sure, our coastline is beautiful, but Cape Town just does so much with theirs, it’s like “Vancouver, the Expanded Edition,” and the wharf where we spent the rest of the day, was no exception.
Anywhere Home Bound
Next up: We are back in Vancouver! We’ll likely be recuperating and relaxing for the first week before jumping in to the holiday festivities (Sidebar: It was super weird to hear someone singing “I’m Dreaming of a White Christmas” in the afternoon heat of a Cape Town square. “Dreaming, alright…” Moreno muttered.) so there won’t be a ‘weekly update.” BUT we’ll be going over all our adventures and still sharing a lot of the stories that haven’t made it online so definitely keep posted.
Now that I’ve finished cleaning the melted After Eights out of my fleece pocket (lesson learned), I can tell you all about our 14th week, which took us from Jo’burg to the coast.
Back in the ‘Burg
As much as we were excited to start our South African ‘tour,’ the reality was that we had some admin things to take care of. After the Panorama Route we headed back into Johannesburg to pick up some stuff we’d left and to have the Landy looked over one last time before we started showing it off to potential buyers (*single tear).
As Land Rover mechanics the country over were up to their necks in job orders, it took us a while to find someone willing to take a look at it, but after a couple days, the Landy was looking and performing better than ever, and while Jo’burg wasn’t as scary the second time around, we were ready to head to greener pastures.
And that we did. We headed south to the Northern Berg, where we visited our 6th Unesco World Heritage site in Africa, the Royal Natal Park of the Drakensberg Mountains. The mountains weren’t actually what we imagined – meadows and cliffs versus pointy gray rock – but it was beautiful, and our hike was much needed and the fresh air very much enjoyed.
Downtime in Durban
From there we headed to Durban to check out the waterfront of the south coast. Durban is so much more laid back than Johannesburg and actually reminded us a bit of Vancouver – especially with the ‘neither here nor there’ weather (see patch of blue peeking through massive clouds at the top photo). We ‘camped’ at a game estate – the accommodations were just outside a safari park and there were zebra and impala grazing amid the gardens and backyards! Definitely one of the most memorable experiences of the trip.
Some Sad News
And then it came time to say goodbye to our loyal Landy :( I am a mushball and totally admit I got a bit emotional. We had turned the Landy into quite a beast and really loved it! But we found a Land Rover loving couple (blog readers, too! Hi!!) keen to adopt it so we left it in their capable hands to have adventures with from hereon in.
A Coastal Roadtrip
Next up: We continue towards Cape Town in a rental sedan (weird!) for our last (!!) week in Africa. En route: wine, sharks and canoes! (Not at the same time though…that would be ridiculous).